Friday, 20 March 2009

Mysore (arse)

We reached Mysore after a gruelling eleven hours on a packed suspension-free bus. The main attraction here was the palace and nearby temple reached by one thousand steps. Or bus. After visiting the hotel's resident astro-palmist and receiving a vague but almost identical future prediction (except that alex would marry a photographer and i a doctor - good to see the caste sytem alive and kicking!) we headed to the palace and found that the tourist enrtry fee had recently been multiplied by ten. As we hovered at the gates considering the budget a friendly local bobby approached. He offered, out of kindness and for a bit of baksheesh, to let us in to the grounds for twenty minutes so we could at least take photos of the palace without the ridiculous fee. How much did he want? - 'as you wish' was the inevitable answer. But no less than two hundred was what he meant. As we were about to pay we discovered that entry to the ground was in fact free - much to his displeasure and the benefit of our beer budget.
The inside of the frigging palace

Where there are people with food there are Monkeys trying to steal it.

When people (men) over here ask me for a photo they really mean can they have a photo with Julie, who they love to include, closer, a little closer! So the current technique is that i say yes emphatically ("OF COURSE! YES! PLEASE!") and Julie scarpers leaving them with me, posing macho-man style/ shirt off/ mucle poses, you name it. Not the picture they were banking on bragging to their mates about, but something a little spicy and why not. These guys benefited from both my professional skills and striking pose. Lucky lads.

This one's for you Pam!

The over priced tourist trap is this way sir!
Weird birds
Ornate buildings

And Cows
Havin g had enough of dodgy coppers, lying rickshaw drivers and enldess offers to visit the cigarette rolling bazaar, we took pity on ourselves and Julie transplanted my christmas present to the bussle of Mysore where we spent a night in the Opulent 'Park Lane Hotel'. When i say opulent it had a TV and real grown-up's mattress (no mickey mouse/garfield/snoopy print on it as seems standard everywhere else). There was however a restaurant serving cold beer. The atmosphere was unique - a fibreglass jungle book scene replete with Indian classical musicians playing not Indian "classical music" as suggested by posters but nursery rhyme melodies in a downbeat surf riff style. The menu was brimming with sage advise so we have recorded it for your perusal.

I'll have the number six please. You see the kind of high class establishment we frequent!
Such hospitality, you needn't even trouble yourself to leave the table!

Incase you didn't heed that advice here's some handy tips.

Beer thief Chuck Norris.


The palace at night from the roof of our hotel. And free.


In an attempt to visit a more tranquil place we climbed the.. ok we got the bus up to the temple. Unfortunately it ws a case of tips "as you like" all over the shop. From getting your flipflpos back to being annonited with bindi powder to being pushed through the tiny temple and having 'free' garlands and offerings forced into your hands! Six hundred steps away from the chaos we found Nandi the Bull(coated in coconut husk and ghee, yum) as ridden by Shiva. Four hundred steps to go....

Made it.

Back to modern day India - Holy Shit! Check those trousers.

Mysore's saving grace. The Hotel RRR's thali. An all-you-can-eat Andhra Pradesh-style spicy curry pick'n'mix served up on a fresh banana leaf. Alex took the challenge and developed the food sweats. This is a lesser known tropical illness which if not monitored closely can progress to the sometimes fatal food coma.

As we left Mysore we pleased to see that the railway protection force had our backs.

Sunday, 15 March 2009

Fort Cochin

Not that much to say about Kochi. Spent most of the time scooting about airing alex's newly liberated...well suffice to say he bought a lunghi. Cool little island with almost no traffic and an amazing chocolate cake shop. Alex fell in love with the local canine population and has vowed to return to 'Dog Street' to pick up that black and white puppy chewing the car tyres. Spent quite a lot if time in Dog Street...
Just down the road from our guest house was this statue of Mother Teresa. Julie understandably (ahem..) wondering why there was a statue of a sick old man, in a box, holding a baby.

I adopted the Lunghi (traditional South Indian garb) as occasional dress for our jaunts around the tranquil Fort Cochi. After some close close calls it was decided underwear would be required so as not to upset the locals whilst peddling.

The untainted beauty that is the Arabian Sea

These guys loving every diesel soaked moment of it

Ladies, shopping just got even more interesting.


After telling this guy Boris Johnson is now the mayor of London, adding "you know him?" He replyed "yes i know, he is an idiot." Succinct and astute.

Apparently Cherai Beach is Cochin's "best kept secret". Although by Indian standards this is reasonably quiet we still felt a little cheated that the words 'undeveloped' and 'enchanting' were used to describe it. Lonely Planet- 3 ; Us- Nil.

A wise crow ignoring the semolina chips we had bought tasted and disgarded within the same minute.

Horny hippy powder.Also available in viagra Cornflake crumbs and sexed-up Shreddie dust flavours.

Periyar


Next destination the wildlife sanctuary of Periyar on the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border. This was a winding five hour bus ride up into the mountians in an area famed for its tea estates and abundance of spice gardens.

This rather unhealthy looking guy is apparently a saint from Varkala. He came up with us.


We could not miss an opportunity to see the gardens so immediately went on a shiny shiny spice tour. Being slightly sad and food-obsessed we loved it and made highly improbable plans to grow, amongst others, pineapple peppercorns, and papaya. Considering the state of our current houseplants and one sad basil-maintenance attempt, this is unlikely to work out.














Men picking pepper. Peter picked a peck of pickled pep........












This has nothing to do with Periyar but we have been bowled over by the vast array of mainly government sponsored advice available in Inida. It seems everywhere you go there is some little gem... And its true, accidents do hurt.



Immediately we were assailed by Periyar's diverse array of wild animal. I think they call this one a cow. A rare sight in India. We were lucky to see it.

Next a pig- viewed over the back wall of our hotel no less.





We settled in for the night with a bottle of Kingfisher on ice and looked at the pig. Looks pretty much like Ruby I think, but then so does the cow.








Above was our jungle hut. Not the cleanest (in fact pretty skanky, made you itch) but the artwork was cool. Check the buxom milkers.


The next day we hired bikes and cycled through the park to take the boat ride around the encloure. But we missed it. With limited cycling areas (in case of tiger attack) we located one of the (less written about) in-park hotels - complete with beer parlour!

Not the most charismatic setting, and unlikely to see any live thing in here (humans included) we took our beers outside.










Me taking the Royal Challenge. Mission accomplished.



Alex recording the local flora.




The local flora.


And fauna.

The next morning we tried again to catch the boat and got to have breakfast with the monkeys. Or more like the monkeys got to have our breakfast.





Eventually we did get to see some of the fabled wild elephants but unfortunately for us it was 100% butt.




Allegedly the real thing....




Apparently we spotted a tiger on our tour but it could have been a rock. Hard to tell...
This sticks were cool though!